Miss Havisham: Continuity Assessment

Design and Notes:

                             

Design Process:
Make-up:

Products-

• Charles fox foundation palette
• Illamasqua white base foundation 
• Charles Fox  supra colour palette (bright red, dark red, black, purple, yellow and white)
• latex
• Scabby Blood
• Charles fox blusher palette
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Charles Fox eye shadow palette (brown)
• Vaseline 
• Illamasqua primer

1. I started with the base of the skin which firstly I wanted the burn on the clean skin first and then to add the rest of the products on top. I applied around 4 layers of latex on the skin and used a hair dryer in between layers to dry it quicker. I then picked at the latex to lift some off the face where there would be a whole so I could fill this are with blood.
2.   Once dry I then started on the foundation, I used a mixture of the Charles fox foundation and the white base foundation to lighten the skin and give a good coverage (application over lips as well).
3.  Once the foundation was applied I powder the face with the loose powder to set the make-up ready for the applied of the wrinkle lines. Once the powder was applied I used the brown shade from the Charles Fox eye shadow palette and created lines on the forehead, slightly around the nose, the chin and the smile lines. 
4. Next I applied a red powder (from the Charles Fox blusher palette) and using a blusher brush went around the eyes with the red so the red was equally under and above the eye. 
5. Next I starting working into the burn, which I applied red, black, purple and yellow supra colour over the area which I applied latex. Next I used the bloody scab (which is a thick form of blood and sets hard) and filled in the two holes I create on the top and bottom burn. I then applied Vaseline over the top and this allowed the colours to mix slightly to blend together and give that wet fresh burn look.
6. Finally was the eyebrows and lashes. Since Miss Havisham was old I wanted her lashes and brows to fit the character so I mixed white supra colour with a small amount of yellow onto my hand. I then used a mascara wand to coat it in the supra colour and brush through the brows and applied on the eyelashes. 

Close of the burns, different angles 

Template size for the burns for Continuity 

Hair:

Equipment and Extras-

• Small curling tongs
• Comb
• Brush
• hairspray 
• White coloured hairspray 
• dead Flowers
• Veil
• Grips
• cape

1. I started with sectioning the hair into the areas that I needed each part to be. starting with creating a middle parting, then parting the fringe from he back of the head this section is down in line with the ear. I then took the back part of the hair and but it into a ponytail just to keep it away from the rest of the hair.
2. I then grabbed my small curling tongs that I have previously plugged in and started curling the fringe into ringlets, I started on the right side sectioning the fringe into three. I then curled each section so there was three ringlets and then did this on the other side. 
3.  I then started on the back where I took the hair out of the ponytail ready for me to spray the hair white. I sectioned the hair bit by bit and sprayed while working my way up so the white was going through the hair in layers to look realistic. At the top I then spray the roots of the hair where the parting is.
4. I then grabbed my comb and started back combing the hair so it looks messy and matted at the back and then put the hair into a mid-high pony tail. I then grabbed a stand from the underneath of the pony tail as this will be wrapped round the hair. 
5. Next I held the ponytail and starting wrapping it round into a large bun while gripping each section down so it was held into place. I then used the plait that I previously made and wrapped it around the bun and gripped it into the side. 
6. I then had 5 flowers to place into the hair at the top, I wanted this to look realistic so I had real flowers from weeks before the assessment and left them to go old and matured, cut them off and used them in the hair. I placed them in using the stalk and pit it into the top of the bun.
7. I then had a lace veil which I bought and put grips through the top of the lace and gripped it underneath the bun. This sat half way up one side of the bun, to half way up the other side of the bun.
8. Finally I went back to the curls at the front of the hair, took individual strands from the front and sprayed it with the white colour hairspray and then slightly at the roots of the parting 

Veil

Hair parting from the top

Left side view of hair

right side of face/curls 

White coloured hair spray I used

Flowers that were put in the hair 

Preparations for Extras:

For the clothing and extras I used a white cotton fabric to wrap around my model and a white lace material as the veil. When I purchased these there were extremely white and clean however the character Miss Havisham hasn't washed or cleaned in multiple years and her house is filthy. Therefore the old bridal clothing she would be wearing would be an off white colour and probably have multiple stains, marks and rips in the veil. How I made the cotton and lace stained was I used a tea bag and put it in a tub of water and placed the materials in the water, this then gave the off white dirty colour. To add extra marks to the fabric I took the material out the water and rubbed the tea bag on the materials to mark it further in certain areas.

Tea bag on the cotton

Marking the lace with the tea bag

My understanding of continuity and its importance in TV and film industry:

Continuity is central to film and television work and it is up to all make-up artists to maintain continuity in their work. Film and television productions are usually shot out of sequence; that is, filming will jump from one scene to another, which may be either further on in the script or story or back near the beginning. This causes problems for the make-up and hair department, who have to ensure that the proformers' appearance:

• Meets the requirments of the script or story and of the design specifications for the production and achieves realism and credibility on camera 

• Is seamless from one scene to the next where the story timeline is continuous, and that the make-up and hair 'match' the preceding and folllowing shots.

Continuity is very important in TV and film because it creates realistic scenes that makes the make-up and hair flow between scene even if the scene is filmed on different days. 

How continuity can be recored in the tv and film industry:

• Take photos of the look
• write down notes 
• keep box/section that has all the make-up and hair products for each actor to know what products were used
• draw face charts and hair charts 

How I'm going to recreated my look-

• Created a hair chart and step by step instructions
• created a makeup chart and step by step instructions
• Create size templates for the burns so they can be the same size each time
• Took photos of the whole look I created, every parting, section and close up to each part of the face
• Kept a container of the flowers that were in the hair to reuse them 
• Kept the lace and material in a bag to reuse for continuity
• bought multiple cans of white hairspray so I can use the same product for continuity
• kept all products together that I used the first time around and also wrote a list of all the products I used

sourse of informations:
Book- Make-up artistry, for professional qualifications By Julia Conway

Developing Estella

Research:
Recently I've starting looking into Estella's character and researching different images of portraying her. When researching and looking through images on Google and Pinterest I starting saving and collecting images that I really liked so I could start gathering ideas of maybe how I want to portray her in my upcoming assessment. I think looking into Estella this way really helped me get a wide variety of images and started bringing ideas together for me so I could start creating my own Estella. Firstly I starting look into hair designs, I started with searching previous Estella's who portrayed her in TV and film. This gave me a variety of photos of different hair styles worn by multiple Estella's. I then starting researching mid-Victorian hairstyles as this expanded the hair styles to a wider range so  can get an idea of what I like and how I want to portray her myself.
  

Hair references-

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/
494551602802310603/
Twists and roll over at the top and two ringlets 
falling down below.

http://i33.fastpic.ru/big/2014/
0307/91/f6dd8bdb3a333869
132811c8c8b6dc91.jpg
I particularly like the hair design on the bottom right
as I like how the up do is quite elaborate with curls and
twist pinned into place with the two ringlets falling below.
I also really like the use of flowers in the hair I think it
makes the hair slightly more interesting with decoration
in the hair. And it was very popular in the Victorian era 
to have hair accessories. 

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.
com/236x/dc/42/85/dc4285361
f5c2af5184558ef99df20fd.jpg
I really like the design and how the hair has been 
folder over at the top and pinned into place to give 
some dimension to the style. I like the use of the
large quantity of hair twisted over like a large
unique bun. I would like to maybe use something like
this at the top of my hair design.  

http://www.weddingandhairstyle.com/wp
-content/uploads/2014/09/Brilliant-
Victorian-Hairstyles-e1411550776948.jpg
I really like how the hair is all scraped back and the
curls are high at the top of he head and the large 
quantity of hair all falls down behind in ringlets. 
I like the shape of the design how the top part is
all pulled up, has volume at the crown of the head
and then all the curls fall below, it looks very elegant.

https://i0.wp.com/36.media.
tumblr.com/152c595db77f1
7bb4d5d4cae413688b0/tumblr
_mxni83QtMP1qh1z3go1_500.jpg
This style is quite similar to the one above how not
so much curls coming off the top of the head as its a
little flatter at the top. Again I like this style of hair 
as I like the way the curls fall behind and the top has
detail. The hair is centre parted and contains a bow as
hair decoration.

These particular images are hairstyles that I really like and are considering to use different elements from multiple designs to create an overall hairstyle I'm happy with. I've really looked into hairstyles that are part down and part up as I'm certain that I want curls falling from the bottom of the head. I've also looked into the top part of the hair if I want the hair at the top to be in a bun and the curls falling under or curls all the way through. This is a basic idea that I like and I will have to try different hairstyles until I finally create the one I like and want to use for my final look. However these photos above have narrowed down my idea so I can experiment in this particular area of styles.

Make-up Reference-

http://www.thestage.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/
Grace-Rowe-Estella-in-GREAT-EXPECTATIONS-credit-
Alastair-Muir.jpg
Great Expectations 2013 USA Film Grace Rowe playing Estella. In this photo it shown the make-up the actress was wearing to portray Estella in the 2013 film. Unlike most film and TV the make-up was very natural, unseen to the eye, however in this particular film Estella is wearing slightly more make-up as you can see the application. Estella's eyelashes are very long (looks like false lashes) and she had eye shadow on the lids which is visible. The brows are defined and shaped and the lips have been draw on, lined at the bottom and lined at the top like a cupid bow as the lipstick doesnt completely cover the lips.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.
com/originals/0c/0b/02/0c0b027d32
edb529ed0b170de17fcbcd.jpg
This is Holliday Grainger playing Estella in the 2012 film, you see here she had very minimal make-up on. Flawless skin however a very light subtle layer, slight pink on the cheek and lips, and the eyes and brows slightly defined. 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CUbwNipdrY/
VO5D3Tqtx2I/AAAAAAAAA1c/jUQ2J
3ZKWjo/s1600/images.jpeg
Vanessa Kirby in the 2011 BBC mini series playing Estella. This look is very natural and you can hardly even tell she is wearing any make-up. However the skin is flawless so probably has a light coverage of foundation and powder. The cheeks looks slightly contoured, just to define the face, the lips are very plain, maybe a slight pink/nude nothing you can obviously see though. The eyes and brows are very simple, brows slightly defined and the eyes maybe darkened the lashes, very subtle natural look. 

Make-up chart:
Look 1-

Here is my first make-up face chart portraying the character Estella. Estella is a fair, young English lady and in the Victorian times make-up was applied to the minimum. Therefore referencing the make-up throughout film and TV that have portrayed Estella is quite hard to study as the make-up is so little and hair designs were so big. However still without noticing there is make-up on the face there is still ways of applying a natural day make-up to give a light flawless finish and warmth the skin up. Here I have created how I visualise a natural make-up for Estella.

Products to use:

• Charles Fox foundation palette
• Illamasqua white skin base foundation 
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Charles Fox 5 cheek palette (pink, on the apples of cheek)
• black Rimmel mascara (smallest amount, very natural lashes)
• NYX eyebrow pencil (light brown, slight definition)
• Charles Fox lip palette (colour LC002 pink and LC003 nude) topped with Vaseline 
• Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo (light contouring on the face for definition)

The make-up for this look is what I interpretate Estella to look like. Iv'e based this on her older self and a day to day Victorian make-up she would of worn.   

Look 2-

Here is the second make-up look Iv'e create for Estella. Later on in the Great Expectations Novel Estella married a wealthy man called Bentley Drummle whom is not a very nice man however she only married him for money as she declared she has no heart. Later in the Novel Drummle is known to be abusive to Estella and is in a very demanding relationship, in the 2011 BBC TV mini series there is a scene near the end of the series where Drummle gets killed and Estella runs out and her fair skin in covered in bruises. This face chart represent this part of Estella's life where she get abused by her husband and her face contains bruises.

Products to use:

• Charles Fox foundation palette
• Illamasqua white skin base foundation 
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Charles Fox 5 cheek palette (pink, on the apples of cheek)
• black Rimmel mascara (smallest amount, very natural lashes)
• NYX eyebrow pencil (light brown, slight definition)
• Charles Fox lip palette (colour LC002 pink and LC003 nude) topped with Vaseline 
• Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo (light contouring on the face for definition)
• Illamasqua eye shadow palette (grey, under the eyes and around the eye to create tired looking eyes/bags)
• Ben Nye Bruise Wheel (red, yellow, green, blue) bruise under the right eye on the cheek bone and along the jaw line on the left side of the face. 

Estella Interpretations

Estella, Miss Havisham's adopted daughter, whom Pip pursues throughout the novel. She does not know that she is the daughter of Molly, Jaggers's housekeeper, and Abel Magwitch, Pip's convict. Estella was given up for adoption to Miss Havisham after her mother, Molly, is tried for murder. Estella represents the life of wealth and culture for which Pip strives. Since Miss Havisham ruined Estella's ability to love, Estella cannot return Pip's passion. She warns Pip of this repeatedly, but he will not or cannot believe her.
Character bio by tcalder87 ImDb

http://web.montgomerybell.com/battenw/great-expectations-jean-simmons-1946.jpg
Jean Simmons as Estella in the 1946 Great Expectations

https://conunvasodewhisky.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/bbc_estella.jpg
Young and older Estella. BBC mini series Great Expectations 2011

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/2f/95/db/2f95db7f15bac82d1cc6f177f8ce4bcf.jpg
Holliday Grainger as Estella in the 2012 film Great Expectations

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Florence-Reed_2063026b.jpg
Jane Wyatt, left, as Estella. 1934 film

https://perioddramavictoriana.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/great_expect_estella.jpg

Justine Waddell as Estella in the 1999 Tv Movie of Great Expectations

Above I have selected a few image of different films/TV series interpretation of Estella. I have looked at a range between 1934-2012 which shows the variety of the difference in portrayals throughout the years. Each Estella has been characterised completely different and each film/TV series creates the make-up, costume and hair in difference ways of how they want to portray Estella to the audience. I think the slight difference even between the 2011 TV series and the 2012 film has multiple differences in Estella. For one Estella in the 2011 mini series I found her hair was always quite loose and and not very elaborate, the curls were loose throughout the hair her dresses were always very light colours and she wore a bonnet quite a lot outside. In the 2012 film I though Holliday Grainger was perfect for the role as she naturally so beautiful and her features are amazing. When I first watched the 2012 Great Expectations I was quite shocked she had red hair I I imagined her to have brown hair like most interpretations. Her dress sense was quite different she tended to wear darker colour such as black and purple quite a lot. I definitely preferred the hairstyles in this interpretation as each style was very unique and very elaborate that it look much higher class as the upper class could afford better stylists and more time which suited Estella much better. In the 1999 Tv movie starring Justine Waddell as Estella working wonderfully, I really liked the overall look they created for Estella and Justine Waddell is very beautiful. I have not watched this 1999 interpretation however I have looked into the film and looked at a variety of photos of Waddell playing Estella. I really enjoy the costumes in the film and even though the hairstyles aren't as elaborate as the 2012 film they are very persise and work well with the character and represent the Victorian period well.

Quotes about Estella-

'" I think she is very pretty."
"Anything else?"
"I think she is very insulting." (She was looking at me then, with a look of supreme aversion.)
"Anything else?" 
"I think I should like to go home."
"And never see her again, though she is so pretty?"
"I am not sure that I shouldn't like to see her again, but I should like to go home now." pg 61

'"Am I pretty?"
"Yes; I think you are very pretty."'pg 82

'"I love- I adore Estella."...
When you told me your story, you told me plainly that you began adoring her the first time you saw her, when you were very young indeed."' pg 247

'"She lived and found powerful friends. She is living now. She is a lady and very beautiful. And I love her!"' pg 460

'But she was so much changed, was so much more beautiful, so much more womanly, in all things winning admiration had made such a wonderful advance, that I seemed to have made none. I fancied, as I looked at her, that I slipped hopelessly back into the coarse common boy again.' pg 235

Miss Havisham Practise for final design

Face Chart and Hair Chart:

Creating the look:

After experimenting with different hair designs and finalising my favourite design that I would create on for my Miss Havisham look I chose the final look. For the make-up I purely adapted and developed my previous design and changed it where necessary.


Make-up:

• Products:
• Charles fox foundation palette
• Illamasqua white base foundation 
• supra colour
• latex
• blood
• Charles fox blusher palette
• Illamasqua loose powder

As this was the practise for my final design I tried to complete it quick so that I knew on the day of the assessment I would be able to create the look in the available time which was 1 hour and 30 minutes.

I started with the base of the skin which firstly I wanted the burn on the clean skin first and then add the rest of the products on top. I applied layers of latex on the skin and used a hair dryer in between layers to dry it quicker, I then picked at the latex to lift some off the face where the blood would be to create depth. Once dry I then started on the foundation, I used a mixture of the Charles fox foundation and the white base foundation to lighten the skin and give a good coverage. Once the foundation was applied I mixed green, red and yellow to make a brown colour for the wrinkles on the skin, I used a thin brush to paint on the lines around the face (forehead, eyes, nose, around mouth) I decided after I didn't like the lines around the lips and decided to just keep them plain white, this was to make them look small and cold. I then used a blusher brush and lightly applied red around the eyes.

I then started on the burn, which I applied red, black, purple and yellow supra colour to the latex area. I then applied Bloody scab to the holes in the skin to fill it in. To finalise the look I used a loose powder and powdered the rest of the face to set the make-up.

On the day for the final look:



Make sure with the foundation I go all the way down the neck and possibly on the chest area and on the ears. Use a mascara wand and white supra colour to paint the lashes and brows white. The supra colour for the wrinkles comes out quite greasy and sometimes not the right shade of colour so instead of creating the wrinkles grease on grease I'm going to create them used powder product instead so its subtle.

Hair-

I started with sectioning the hair into the areas I need each part to be. Creating a middle parting, then parting the fringe from he back of the head this section is down in line with the ear. I then took the back part of the hair and but it into a ponytail just to keep it away from the rest of the hair. I then grabbed my small curling tongs that I have previously plugged in and started curling the fringe into ringlets (each side of the head had 3 ringlets). I started started on the back where I took the hair out of the ponytail and started back combing the hair as I wanted the hair to be messy and matted at the back. I then put the hair in a mid-high pony tail and then grabbed a strand of hair from under the pony tail and plaited it as this would then be wrapped round the bun.

Once the plait was formed I twisted the bun around into a large flat bun and starting gripping it into place. Once the bun was all gripped into place I took the hanging plait and wrapped it around the bun covering most the grips on the outside. I then pulled a strand of hair from the middle of the bun and curled it to look messy and like it had fallen out. I then hair sprayed the style into place. I also started practising ageing the hair, I started with used a mascara wand and supra colour and brushing it through the roots of the hair, I also used dry shampoo to dry out and matt the hair also the spray powders the hair to dull white colour.

On the assessment day-
On the hair I will have  purchased white coloured hair spray to ensure the hair is highlighted white. I will also have props for the hair, this will be flowers on top of the hair and an off white lace veil hanging from under the bun.

For the practise I tried to take as many photos as possible of the look because on the assessment day, I will be creating the whole look and the for continuity I will be re-creating the look again. So for this practise I took photos of everything I did, close ups to the burn, where the parting is in the hair and close ups to the face. This was to make sure I can definitely recreate the look.

Miss Havisham Living Effects

...Hidden in the Dark

Miss Havisham has brought many physical and emotional pain and distress to herself since her heart was crushed and she felt the need to no longer live life to the full. When Miss Havisham shut herself away from the world she shit herself down and starting causing herself much harm and depression. The effects of living in a large house, Satis house and keeping the house is such a state that hasnt been cleaner or touched in many years can really effect the health. The fact the house is bordered up and all the thick curtains are drawn so not an inch of sunlight drifts in. 

The Effect of no Sunlight-
Natural sunlight is a free and available mood enhancer. It encourages us to produce vitamin D and protects us from seasonal mood changed. Lack of natural sunlight can lead to vitamin D deficiency - which contributes to an increased risk of and Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD).Any decline in natural sunlight exposure and the resulting vitamin D absorption disrupts the natural body clock that controls the body's gauge for sleeping and waking hours. This causes an uncontrolled deviation from normal patterns and behaviours, which in turn can causes feelings of depression and hopelessness. Reduced melatonin and serotonin hormones — the chemicals released from the brain that control mood — are often also partly to blame for SAD symptoms that lead to depression.

Vitamin D is required for the regulation of the minerals calcium and phosphorus found in the body. It also plays an important role in maintaining proper bone structure. It is also used for boosting the immune system, preventing autoimmune diseases, and preventing cancer.

"'Look at me,' said Miss Havisham. 'You are not afraid of a woman who has never seen the sun since you were born?'" (Ch. 8)

Dust and mould-

http://images.npg.org.uk/
800_800/7/9/mw67579.jpg

As you can see throughout Great Expectations Miss Havisham lives in a very large old house called Satis house. During the period that Miss Havisham lived there since since she was left by her husband-to-be everything stopped in the house, including the clocks. Miss Havisham has no-one clean the house or garden and the cake and food fro her wedding day which was many years ago still laid on the table. In the 2012 Great Expectations film its shows the house, dark, covered in dust, dirt and multiple rats wondering on the table and through the house. This means the food is decaying which is very unhygienic, mould, spores and bacteria would start growing on and around the food, which is extremely bad for your health. The dust and uncleanliness of the house would effect her breathing, lungs and even her voice. 

Dust becomes toxic when present in excessive amounts whether inside or outside homes. The toxicity can be attributed to both material composition of the dust contaminants and living organisms present in the dust such as moulds and dust mites. House dust mites (microscopic eight-legged creatures also known as HDM) feed on flakes of shed human skin. Side effects to this could be Breathing problems and lung damage caused by scarring (Fibrosis) from excessive inhalation of chemical dust contaminants. Also allergic reactions and increased risk of asthma associated with dust mites and proteases contained within dust mites’ feces.

sourced information:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEVl1Ec92s8
http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-929-vitamin%20d.aspx?activeingredientid=929&activeingredientname=vitamin%20d
http://life.gaiam.com/article/how-does-sunlight-impact-your-moodhttp://www.toomuchof.com/dust-in-house/#sthash.8WbvClq8.dpuf