Practise of Estella: Informal Assessment

On the day of the practise for my final assessment I wanted to treat the session like it was the real thing so I can be prepared with all my equipment, products and accessories. On the day of the practise I made sure I had my face chart and hair chart so I could execute the look to how I would want it to look for the final assessment. Here is my hair chart that I brought with my and stuck to the side of the mirror, the drawing has three views to the design so I can see what it looks like from the top, side and back. Iv'e also included notes of what the design is like and the equipment I need. The new design was developed further and slightly adjusted which I noted down the changes in my previous Estella hair post. The changes to the look was the folds over at the top of the hair, instead of having four equal folds I was adding more to the top part so it was more elaborate, I tried the previous style on my Kate head and added hair extensions in to get a feel of the right length however this will be the first time practising it on my assessment partners hair. I have also added in so accessories to the hair, this will be grey flower.




This is my final face chart, I have adjusted it slightly from the original one I made as I changed the position of the bruise and added a small amount of blood to the bruising. I was happy with my make-up design as I have developed it from my original plan therefore this practise will make sure everything goes to plan and looks good ready for the assessment.

Hair
Firstly I started with sectioning the hair by leaving a section down in the middle of the head at the back and then scrapping the rest of the hair back into a high pony tail just above where the hair started where the curls will be.

Next I started on creating the loops in the hair. First I gathered a section from the pony tail, this section will be folder over and be the top middle section. I held the hair out, hair sprayed it so it would get sticky, rolled the hair around two of my fingers and then carried on rolling the hair all the way up and then gripped it down. I then starting working my way around the hair doing the same technique for each hair rolled up. I would spray it first, get the end, roll it up and grip it to the head. Once the top edges of the pony tail we done I wanted to leave the two middle and two bottom one to last, so I gripped these out the way for the time being.

I then started on the hair which was loose at the bottom and section the hair in half to create two ringlets. I then grabbed my preheated curling tongs and clipped the end of the hair and rolled the hair up the tongs. Once I released the tongs the curl was left in a ringlet, I then did this with the other piece of hair. Finally I went back to do the rest of the hair loops, I clipped the middle section out of the way and created the two bottom ones which covered where the roots of the ringlets came from. For each hair piece I rolled it in the direction of where it was so the top ones rolled forward and over and the bottom ones under and below. Finally was the middle section, these ones I had to be careful where I placed the grip so it wouldn't crush the loops under it, however I gripped it in and hair sprayed it to stay in place.

On the assessment I will add the flowers to the hair with grip randomly placed around the hair however I decided not to use them for the practise and just use it for the actual assessment.

Make-up
Firstly I started with preparing the face; this was with the Illamasqua primer. Next was concealing the face, this was just under the eyes, around the nose, chin and on any blemishes. Once concealed I used a mix of the lightest foundation from the Charles Fox palette and a mix of the white base foundation to create a light flawless finish.

Once the base of the make-up was on I used the Illamasqua loose powder to set the make-up. Next I applied a mix of the red and pink blush onto the cheeks to highlight the face with colour. Next was the eyelashes which I  used a disposable wand, dipped in it the mascara and wiped the excess off with couch roll so it wouldn't apply too thick. I then applied it lightly on the top and bottom lashes. Next was the brows which I lightly filled them in to define them slightly. I then went onto the lips where I mixed a pink and nude colour from the Charles Fox mini lip palette and used this on the lips. I put in on the top and bottom lip and asked my partner to rub her lips together.

 Finally was the bruising, I used the Ben Nye bruise wheel which works wonders on creating them. I started on the bruise on the cheek where I used a red as the base, then applied a tint of blue and green for the colour of the bruise and then a yellow around the edge like it was healing slightly. I didn't want the bruise to be to dark or large however just enough to see the face is bruised lightly. Next was the lip area, I applied a red just under the edge of the lip with a little bit of blue all from the bruise wheel and then for the blood I used 'Scabby Blood' which is a thick blood mix to create scratches and scabs, I used a thin brush and drew a small line down the lip with the blood.




Overall 
I'm very pleased with the outcome of my complete practise for the Estella look including full hair and make-up. I'm very pleased with how the hair came out, it was a big success and looked even better on my partner than it was on the Kate head. I definitely glad I experimented with the hair designs and I'm happy I brought together all of the elements I like to create and overall hair design. I pleased with how the top part of the hair came out as it does look much better with more loops folded over in the hair. For the make-up I was going for the very simple Victorian traditional make-up which I'm very pleased with how it looks because its a lovely simple natural design which fits the character, Estella. With the change of the second bruise I definitely prefer the one bruise and the small cut as it creates a different contrast between the two instead of the bruise looking the same. I like the bruise is kept simple as I didn't want it overpowering the look, just slightly bruised so it was visible to the eye.  

Miss Havisham: Continuity Assessment- Recreation

Make-up

Products-

• Charles fox foundation palette
• Illamasqua white base foundation 
• Charles Fox  supra colour palette (bright red, dark red, black, purple, yellow and white)
• latex
• Scabby Blood
• Charles fox blusher palette
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Charles Fox eye shadow palette (brown)
• Vaseline 
• Illamasqua primer

1. I started with the base of the skin which firstly I wanted the burn on the clean skin first and then to add the rest of the products on top. I applied around 4 layers of latex on the skin and used a hair dryer in between layers to dry it quicker. I then picked at the latex to lift some off the face where there would be a whole so I could fill this are with blood.
2.   Once dry I then started on the foundation, I used a mixture of the Charles fox foundation and the white base foundation to lighten the skin and give a good coverage (application over lips as well).
3.  Once the foundation was applied I powder the face with the loose powder to set the make-up ready for the applied of the wrinkle lines. Once the powder was applied I used the brown shade from the Charles Fox eye shadow palette and created lines on the forehead, slightly around the nose, the chin and the smile lines. 
4. Next I applied a red powder (from the Charles Fox blusher palette) and using a blusher brush went around the eyes with the red so the red was equally under and above the eye. 
5. Next I starting working into the burn, which I applied red, black, purple and yellow supra colour over the area which I applied latex. Next I used the bloody scab (which is a thick form of blood and sets hard) and filled in the two holes I create on the top and bottom burn. I then applied Vaseline over the top and this allowed the colours to mix slightly to blend together and give that wet fresh burn look.
6. Finally was the eyebrows and lashes. Since Miss Havisham was old I wanted her lashes and brows to fit the character so I mixed white supra colour with a small amount of yellow onto my hand. I then used a mascara wand to coat it in the supra colour and brush through the brows and applied on the eyelashes. 

Hair

Equipment and Extras-

• Small curling tongs
• Comb
• Brush
• hairspray 
• White coloured hairspray 
• dead Flowers
• Veil
• Grips
• cape

1. I started with sectioning the hair into the areas that I needed each part to be. starting with creating a middle parting, then parting the fringe from he back of the head this section is down in line with the ear. I then took the back part of the hair and but it into a ponytail just to keep it away from the rest of the hair.
2. I then grabbed my small curling tongs that I have previously plugged in and started curling the fringe into ringlets, I started on the right side sectioning the fringe into three. I then curled each section so there was three ringlets and then did this on the other side. 
3.  I then started on the back where I took the hair out of the ponytail ready for me to spray the hair white. I sectioned the hair bit by bit and sprayed while working my way up so the white was going through the hair in layers to look realistic. At the top I then spray the roots of the hair where the parting is.
4. I then grabbed my comb and started back combing the hair so it looks messy and matted at the back and then put the hair into a mid-high pony tail. I then grabbed a stand from the underneath of the pony tail as this will be wrapped round the hair. 
5. Next I held the ponytail and starting wrapping it round into a large bun while gripping each section down so it was held into place. I then used the plait that I previously made and wrapped it around the bun and gripped it into the side. 
6. I then had 5 flowers to place into the hair at the top, I wanted this to look realistic so I had real flowers from weeks before the assessment and left them to go old and matured, cut them off and used them in the hair. I placed them in using the stalk and pit it into the top of the bun.
7. I then had a lace veil which I bought and put grips through the top of the lace and gripped it underneath the bun. This sat half way up one side of the bun, to half way up the other side of the bun.
8. Finally I went back to the curls at the front of the hair, took individual strands from the front and sprayed it with the white colour hairspray and then slightly at the roots of the parting 

Continuity-

My step by step of creating the look was exactly the same, I made sure I did everything the same and everything in the same order. On the day of the assessment I brought in all my original notes from the first time I created Miss Havishams character this was, Make-up chart, hair chart, make-up instructions and hair instructions. These all helped me to create the look the same for continuity as I just repeated what was on the charts and instructions. On the day I brought in a mood board of photos of when I first created it, the images showed close up detail to the burn, close up to the face and hair and a variety of angles to help create the look again. I think for the continuity part the original photos of the look I created the first time round helped the most as when getting the burn and hair in the exact same place I kept looking at the photos to make sure I was getting everything spot on.

I didn't have any trouble with forgetting anything such as products/equipment/accessories because I kept a list of all of the products and equipment needed together and the original products together to be used the next time around. The flowers, veil and material I kept all together so I could just bring it in on the day and it would be prepared. The flowers and the burn sizes were kept in a container together, the burn templates were vital to have as it was the exact size of the burn I first created and was very helpful with continuity for the burn. 

I felt the hardest part of the continuity is using products such as latex because its hard to create the same thing again as latex sometimes dries different. Also things like colour is hard to repeat again especially when the burn is so detailed and colours start mixing together. Even though I have a burn template and photos of where the burn was placed on the skin it still was quite hard to make sure it was in the same place and the same angle across the face, I definitely found the burn the hardest part to recreate. I think the second hardest part was probably the white colour through the hair, the white was sprayed in different layers of the hair and throughout the front curls, it was difficult to make sure I got the right amount of white and in the same place. Overall I feel with the difficulties of certain things the look has I executed the continuity to a high standard and did everything I could to keep the look the same from, notes to face charts, photos, templates, containers and bags of certain items and equipment. I really enjoyed creating Miss Havisham as she was interesting to research about and look into her character aspects. I really enjoyed the continuity even though it was a little challenging mentally and physically to recreate the look however that's the fun it being tested on our skills as continuity is a vital aspect in the TV and Film industry.

Face chart

hair chart

hair notes

make-up notes

Final Photos 

Estella: Make-up Practise

Finalising my Make-up Design-






I wanted to have a practise of creating the natural Estella look with bruising on the face. When developing Estellas character I looked at different ways I could portray her; this was one of the face chart looks I created for Estella. I have taken this face chart and created it on my assessment partner to see how it looks and if the bruising works well and if it's where I want it.






Products:

• Charles Fox foundation palette 
• Charles fox concealer mix
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Charles Fox blusher palette (red and pink)
• Rimmel mascara
• NYX light brown pencil 
• Charles fox lip palette (pink and nude)
• Ben Nye bruise wheel 
• Illamasqua white base foundation
• Illamasqua primer

1. Firstly I started with preparing the face; this was with the Illamasqua primer. Next was concealing the face, this was just under the eyes, around the nose, chin and on any blemishes. Once concealed I used a mix of the lightest foundation from the Charles Fox palette and a mix of the white base foundation to create a light flawless finish. 
2. Once the base of the make-up was on I used the Illamasqua loose powder to set the make-up. Next I applied a mix of the red and pink blush onto the cheeks to highlight the face with colour. 
3. Next was the eyelashes, I didn't want the eyelashes to be too dark or obvious so I used a disposable wand, dipped in it the mascara and wiped the excess off with couch roll so it wouldn't apply thick. I then applied it lightly on the top and bottom lashes.

1. I then started on the eyebrows, I didn't want them to be too defined as I wanted the whole look to be very natural and subtle. So I lightly filled in the brows just to define them slightly. 
2. I then went onto the lips where I mixed a pink and nude colour from the Charles Fox mini lip palette and used this on the lips. I put in on the top and bottom lip and asked my partner to rub her lips together. 
3. Finally was the bruising, I used the Ben Nye bruise wheel which works wonders on creating them. I started on the bruise on the cheek where I used a mix of red and blue, this was to create a newer large bruise on the face and slightly going up the side by the brow. The next bruise was the one next to the chin, I used a mix of green/blue and yellow, this was for a slightly older bruise and its just healing. I didn't want the bruising to be to heavy as I didn't want it to overpower the look 

Overall:
After creating the look I decided I really like the natural make-up with slight bruising on the face. I've decided however I don't want the bruise which is next to the chin and I want a small bruise under the lip with a little bit of blood instead to look like a cut under the lip. I think this will look better have a cut on one side and a bruise on the other side of the face. For my next full Estella practise I'm going to recreate the face chart to match the look I want to create for the final with the right bruises on the face and where I want it. I'm happy with the base make-up being natural as this suits Estella's character being an upper class Victorian era young lady.

Make-up Inspo

Small cut lip for next Estella look- inspo cut

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/i/2012/244/f/6/split_lip_by_blyeperthshire-d5d8yol.jpg

Natural fair Victorian Make-up
http://www.katetattersall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Maria-Dietsch-18501.jp

Slight bruising on the face
http://www.newhealthguide.org/images/10416039/image001.jpg

Estella: Hair Practise

Developing my Final Hair Design

This is the design I have drawn which will possibly be my final hairstyle. I've brought together elements from different hairstyles that I liked which were in relation to Estella such as previous characters portraying her and also mid-late Victorian hairstyles. After drawing up this hair design I had a go on my Kate head. I wanted a hairstyle quite different to my Miss Havisham so it shows the difference in character and also styles/techniques. For Estella's character I wanted something neater, sophisticated and high class.









Equipment-

• Hair brush
• Comb
• Grips 
• Hairspray
• Hair band 
• Hair Extensions (however I won't use this on my assessment model)

Firstly I started with sectioning the hair by leaving a section down in the middle of the head at the back and then scrapping the rest of the hair back into a high pony tail just above where the hair start below.

Next I put some brown hair extensions into the hair, two single strands at the bottom and two lots of three clips around the edge of the ponytail. I have added the extensions in as assessment partner has very long hair and I feel I won't receive the full effect of the hair design if its really short as it won't look like this in the assessment. Next I section the pony tail into four parts; top, right, left and bottom section. I firstly gathered the top section, held the hair right at the end and rolled the hair up (like as if you were putting rollers in) and then gripped the loop to the head. I then grabbed the side section, wrapped it up to create a loop and gripped it to the head and then did the same for the left section as well.

Before doing the last section at the bottom of the head, I wanted this section to hide the roots at where the curls at the bottom start. So firstly I section the hair which was down into two, to create two curls, I then used my heater curling tongs and wrapped them up in the tongs to create ringlets. I then did this with the other strand of hair so there was two hanging ringlets at the bottom. Finally I grabbed the last section of the hair and rolled it up in my fingers and and gripped it to the head where the roots of the curls are to hide where it came from.

Improvements for Final Design:

After creating the hair design on the Kate head , iv'e decided I really like this design and want to use this design as my final Estella hairstyle however I want to make some improvements to the hair design to make a it better and slightly more elaborate. I like the centre part where the four sections twist over however I feel I want this slightly larger, more volumized and more twists going over instead of just four equal sections. I feel with my assessment partner having such long hair and it being quite thick I have an advantage to create a slightly more elaborate design and use the length. I want to stick with the two ringlet curls at the bottom as I don't want to add any more curls because I don't want this section to over power the look as I want the detail and design to be mainly at the top. In the Victorian era it was very popular to have accessories in the hair such as feathers, flowers and combs ect. so I think to the main part of the design at the top I want to add small flowers throughout the hair.

Hairstyle Inspiration from development

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.

com/originals/0c/0b/02/0c0b027d32

edb529ed0b170de17fcbcd.jpg

http://i33.fastpic.ru/big/2014/

0307/91/f6dd8bdb3a333869

132811c8c8b6dc91.jpg

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/

494551602802310603/

Estella bruising

When Developing Estella's character I looked at how she could be created through make-up and portrayed to viewers. For my final look I think I'v decided to go with the bruised, beaten look for Estella. I think creating her this way really portrays herself and how she was brought up to become heartless and marry a horrible abusive man because she feels that is what she deserves. This whole look portrays her lifestyle and upbringing and will be shown through make-up.

I've decided to look into different bruises and the colour of them and where on the face they are most likely when being hit/abused. When looking into the colour of the bruises this can me when creating my own bruises and experiment with the colours to see what looks realistic.

Bruises:

A hematoma is also a bump that happens under the skin after an injury. But this bump is caused by blood that collects under the skin. Each can be called a bruise.

What are symptoms and signs of a bruise, and why does it change colour?

Bruises can be associated with tenderness of the involved discoloured area. Bruises change in appearance over time, and it may be possible to tell by looking at a bruise how old it is. When it first appears, a bruise will be reddish looking, reflecting the colour of the blood in the skin. By one to two days, the reddish iron from the blood undergoes a change and the bruise will appear blue or purple. By day six, the colour changes to green and by day eight to nine, the bruise will appear yellowish-brown. In general, the bruised area will be repaired by the body in two to three weeks after which the skin will return to normal.

http://www.drbunn.com/faq/bruise

• The colour change begins either at the outside of the bruise or at the centre, depending on how the bruise occurred.
• The closer the broken blood vessels are to the surface, the sooner the bruise appears and the more intense its colours will be.
• Most small bruises disappear within seven days, and larger ones go away within two weeks.
• Bruises may last longer in elderly people, because restricted circulation slow the removal of the decaying blood components (this may be particularly true in the lower extremities, where circulation may be restricted due to clogging of the arteries).
• Some people bruise more easily than others. You’re more likely to be black-and-blue if you regularly take anticoagulants (Coumadin [generic: warfarin], Dicumarol, Miradon) or aspirin, which interfere with clotting. If the blood doesn't clot properly, more of it will leak out under the skin when trauma occurs.

https://www.ncjrs.gov/html/ojjdp/portable_guides/abuse/images/tbl_01.gif

Facial Bruises-

Eye/cheek bone bruise
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kf6mkF1bbCE
/T1_gBRdLHuI/AAAAAAAAAKA/
tKIlxHXUPYY/s1600/bruise.png

bruised/black eye
http://www.uofmchildrenshospital.org
/fv/groups/public/documents/images/272921.jpg

Bruised/broken nose
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com
/236x/07/f5/23/07f523793187ee160
9d8c6ce69511af8.jpg

Bruised jaw/cut lip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums
/v293/R3dH3ad/IMG_4764.jpg

Experimenting with creating Bruises-

Products I used-
Bloody Scab- Purchased from a shop in Swindon called Skywalkers
Ben Nye Bruise Wheel Colours-  Red, Yellow, Blue and Green

New Bruise, Red/purple bruising around the eye

front shot of a Newer Bruise colour

(right) Older bruise- slightly more blue and purple.
bruised and cut nose so bruising spread to the eye

Close up of nose/eye

Older bruise on the forehead- Yellow and green colours 

Selfie of Bruises

Information sourced-
http://www.drbunn.com/faq/bruise
http://www.medicinenet.com/bruises/page2.htm